Salt, a treasure rediscovered

Since ancient times, salt has played a key role in the lives of human beings. Used primarily as a means of preserving foodstuffs, it acquired vital importance during the Roman Empire, and is the derivation of the word “salary”. This was because it was common practice in Rome for employees of the Empire, such as legionaries, to receive their wages (or salaries) in salt, as payment for their services. The areas where salt was extracted became so important strategically that some of them were walled and settlements were created to defend this asset. The oldest known record of Portuguese salt dates from the year 959, which referred to a donation of land and salt-pans in the Aveiro area by the Countess Mumadona to the Monastery of São Salvador in Guimarães.

Owing to its geographical location and the natural outline of the coast, Portugal has always been a country with strong ties to the production and export of salt. The most noteworthy centres of production are Aveiro and Figueira da Foz. And the salt-pans of the Tagus (in Alcochete), the Sado (in Setúbal) and in the Algarve, in Olhão, Tavira and Castro Marim.

In the 20th century, salt extraction from underground mines led to salt production on the surface decreasing and even being abandoned in coastal salt-pans and salt-water springs. But nowadays, this “white gold” is being rediscovered: some disused salt-pans are getting a new lease of life and producing top-quality salt. As it is not purified or dried artificially, it has a unique richness in mineral salts and essential elements from the sea water. Some producers (as at the salt-pans of Castro Marim) also are also finding new forms of business with a clear focus on tourism, such as flower of salt or salt baths for treatment or for leisure.

It is thus possible to revitalise salt production and create new jobs around this age-old activity. But it also helps to preserve the ecosystems of the salt marsh in the natural parks, ensuring ecological equilibrium and the conservation of the indigenous flora and fauna.

An entirely artisan extraction process is employed, with a rake made of untreated wood being used to gather the salt. All the work is done manually by the salt workers (a profession which is regaining its proper importance) and it depends wholly on favourable weather conditions, i.e. lots of sun and wind.

The period for extracting salt normally starts in May, when the spring rains end, and lasts until the end of September, with the first rains of autumn.

The production process starts when the sea water flows into the evaporation tanks. All the water is allowed to evaporate and, after about a month, the layer of crystals starts to form. The finest crystals known as “flor de sal” (flower of salt) float to the surface and have to be gathered every day. Meanwhile, the most concentrated salt is deposited on the bottom and is swept to the sides of the tank to allow it to be collected. This process is repeated throughout the harvesting season, as long as the weather permits. After the first rains, the salt that is still in the fields is covered until it is taken away to be sold.

In 2014, and according to date from INE – the National Statistics Institute(1), Portugal produced 96,321 tonnes of sea salt, of which 94,442 (98%) are produced in the Algarve. Almost all the sea salt produced in Portugal comes from the salt-pans in the Algarve, to season people’s lives all over the world.

About the author

João Gonçalves (31) Was born in Serpa, and holds a degree in Marketing, Business Communication, and Audio-visual Production from the University of Algarve, in Faro. He is currently working as a director, cameraman and editor. He lives in Faro.